Friday, February 21, 2014

Back After Two Years

Yes its been 2 years since I've posted anything to this blog. What happened?  It's been so long that I don't really remember. I do know that writing a blog requires commitment and more work than you might think and sometimes you just get tired of posting and run out of ideas. Well the dry spell is over and lots has happened since I last posted.

First of all the Phillips Project has gotten as far as some cleaning and a lot of disassembly. The poor thing has been lying in pieces for about 2 years. Not to worry though, I will get it done one of these days. There's just too much other stuff to do first.



Part of the Phillips tear down included a stuck stem

Like any good bike geek the fleet has changed quite a bit in the last 2 years. The Cannondale Synapse was stolen right out of my garage back in August of 2012. 



Cannondale Synapse Feb. 2012

What a horrible feeling to walk into your garage, look at the spot where you last left your bike only to find its gone! You start to look around as if you might not remember where you last left your bike. Thank goodness for home owners insurance. I was in the process of having a new bike built and was planning on selling the Cannondale. In the end I probably got more money from the insurance company than I could have sold the bike for.  Still it was bothersome that someone came onto my property and took my bike while I was inside my home.


I had a tag sale a week earlier and had moved everything that wasn't for sale (including the Cannondale) to the back of the garage. That way I didn't have to try to drag everything out in the early morning before all the early birds showed up. Note to self, always conceal your valuable, and desirable stuff from dishonest people that might be scoping out your tag sale for nefarious reasons. Also always keep the garage locked.

Monday, December 12, 2011

The Phillips Project

1964 Phillips 3 speed

Last spring a coworker gave me a Phillips roadster that had been hanging in her grandfathers basement for as long as she could remember.


The Sturmey Archer hub says "64" which is a pretty accurate way to ID the year of manufacture on an old roadster. 
The front hub looks to be an old dyno hub. I will definitely see if I can improve on that fender line ;)


I love the Phillips chainring but I'm not so wild about those old cotter cranks
.
The headbadge is definitely one of the cooler ones I've come across. I've done a bit of searching online and I haven't found any Phillips bikes with the sword on the seat tube that you can just barely see in the photo above.


I doubt I will be able to find another one of these pedals in new old stock condition. I might just have to go with plain block pedals.


That pedal doesn't quite look right, does it? In case you didn't notice in the first picture the seat-post and saddle are missing as well.

There's a lot of surface rust and oxidation on this old bike, I see a lot of steel wool in my future.


I haven't found any of these old hand grips on ebay or even any pictures of bikes with grips like that. I think I've got my work cut out for me with this one. My plan is to restore the bike to as close to original working order as I can over the course of this winter.



Thursday, December 8, 2011

Der Pendler (The Commuter)

This year I want to try to ride all winter, something I've never tried to do before. I know once the roads get covered in sand and ice I won't be riding on 23 mm tires. I love my Cannondale with drop bars but like most carbon fiber road bikes built today it's limited to skinny tires. Enter the Schwinn Mesa my nephews old mountain bike that has been languishing in his parents garage for several years. 

2000 Schwinn Mesa after a bit of work
My nephew and I picked this bike up at a bike shop when he was around 15. This was just before Schwinn was bought by another company and consequently began offering bikes in department stores. He bought it with his own money and some birthday money I was kicking in towards the purchase. We went to the bike shop because the bike he had from Walmart hadn't even survived a year. The Mesa was an entry level Mountain bike but it was what he could afford and a step up from the Walmart bike. 

I thought it would make a perfect winter bike, with its wide tires and ample clearance for fenders. Also I wouldn't feel like I should wipe it down after riding through puddles of slush since it's aluminum and previously ridden in the woods by a teenage boy. Aka it won't rust and it's not mint or expensive.  

Some of the bits I replaced
I should have taken pictures before I stripped the bike down but at least I can show you some of the parts I replaced. I changed the tires to the more road friendly 1.95 Kenda Kross. The handle bar was all steel and too straight for my tastes, so I replaced it with the lighter aluminum Civia Loring handle bar to give me a more upright position. The original stem was also all steel and too long. Instead I used a shorter aluminum stem by Dimension. There wasn't really anything wrong with the grips but I went with a more ergo grip from Serfas. 

The original Suntour triple crankset's middle chainring was showing a bit of wear but the whole crankset had to be replaced because the chainrings were riveted together. I installed a Shimano Acera triple which was pretty similar to the original accept the chainrings were bolted not riveted. For some unknown reason Schwinn had used an E type front derailleur which is really unnecessary in a hard tail mountain bike. I opted for the bolt on Shimano Alivio FD. The worn out bottom bracket is not pictured but it was also replaced, and of course I replaced all the cables and housing. 
(Note for those that are unfamiliar with "E type" front derailleurs, they attach to the bottom bracket and general only need to used on bikes with rear suspension.)
New front derailleur, crankset, and Shimano a530 pedals
I'm trying out the Shimano a530 in order to have the option of clipping in or not.  The plastic chainring gaurd allows me to ride in regular street clothes without a pant leg strap. My goal is to be able to ride in cycling specific gear or civvies which is why ended up with a rather plush seat.


I found the Schwinn seat really uncomfortable so I thought I really lucked out when I found a Specialized Reva which had come off of a brand new bike, marked down to $25. The Reva is very similar to the Specialized Lyndia I have on my Cannondale but, unfortunately I didn't take into account how upright my position on the bike was going to be and ultimately I needed more padding under my seat bones. I'm using a Serfas dual density saddle, DDL-CT Women's with a deep groove or cut out, so far it's quite comfy.



Although the bike only has a 7 speed shifter it also has an 8 speed Shimano Acera rear derailleur which I was able to use. I happen to have an 11-30 cassette laying around so I used it with the 13 tooth sprocket removed, other wise it would not fit the hub. Ideally it would be nice to have the 13, jumping from 15 to 11 isn't ideal but with 3 chainrings the perfect gear can be found.


Finally I installed the rack and fenders. I purchased Sunlite chromoplastic fenders because they were cheap, and now I know why. Its not that the fenders themselves are any different from other chromoplastic fenders but the fender stays and limited hardware are another story. The stays are one piece of stainless steel that wraps from one side to the other with the ends looped so they can be bolted to the eyelets in the drop outs. The problem with this system is the lack of easy adjustment to fit to each bike. In the front I was able to rebend the stainless steal to the right length but in the rear they were so long that I had to cut and bend them. Getting stainless steel to bend exactly the way you want without special tools is quite difficult because it is so hard. I ended making them just a bit too short. Fortunately I was able to find several fender stays in a box of spare fender bits at Niantic Bay Bicycle. 

A little creativity was called for with this fender install
Axiom Streamliner Road DLX


I knew going into this build that I would have to come up with a way to mount the fender stays to a suspension fork without eyelets. I decided to use the quick release skewer and an "adapter" like the one that came with the rack on my Cannondale.  I had to make the adapter and ended up using a toilet flange repair kit. All I had to do was cut off the ends of the metal flange and shape them with a grinder. Using the quick release skewer to hold the rack in place is kind of a pain when you need to remove the wheel but its doable. The rack pictured on the right is similar to the one I have on my Cannodale Synapse.



I used to think this bike was too big for me and I rode it with the seat practically sitting on the top tube. The seat tube is 21 inches long and the standover height is about 31 inches. As far as standover clearance goes I'm right at the limit. Even so I have raised the saddle height several times. I think I have the fit dialed in now and I find it to be comfortable, fun and stable. In the future I may want to make some more upgrades to further winterize:
*New suspension fork with disc tabs.
*New disc capable front hub
*Disc brake for the front
*Internal gear hub
All this requires money that I shouldn't spend at the moment, but in the mean time I can research and dream.

Friday, December 2, 2011

Local Frame Builder


While I was at Niantic Bay Bicycles today Andrew Watson, a local frame builder stopped in to show off one of his latest builds before he delivered it to its new owner. I believe he said the bike weighed right around 16lbs. The components are Sram Red and the hubs are white Industries, the frame is steel.


Go to Watson Cycles to check out more pictures of this bike.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Bicycle Lights

If your shopping for a headlight for your bike it can be a bit overwhelming. So I thought I would share my recent shopping and research into bicycle lighting. Its a little better than it used to be since most of the industry seems to have settled on lumens as the best way to describe a light's strength. Whats a lumen and what is the difference between lux, lumen and watts? 


Lumen - measures luminous flux, the quantity of light emitted by a light source.

Lux - measures the amount of luminous flux spread in a square meter by a light source. Sunlight on an average day ranges from 32,000 to 100,000 lux.  Moonlight = 1 lux. 

Watts - The amount of power consumed by a light source.

LEDs (light emitting diodes) are pretty much the industry standard, which simplifies things when shopping for a light. There are different types of LEDs, Cree, and Nichia to name a few. 

There are 3 types of power sources;

Dynomo hubs which generate power when the wheel is rotating. 

Rechargable lithium ion batteries.

Disposable Batteries such as AA, AAA etc. Of course you can get these in a rechargable type as well.

When selecting a headlight you should consider where you will be riding. Dark roads, well lit roads, or trails. Some lights are only meant to increase your visibility to traffic, these are usually less than $50 dollars. This is a bit obvious but I'll say it anyway, In my experience traveling on well lit roads you only need a to be seen light, as even some of the brightest lights get washed out and add nothing to your ability to see. For trail riding you should get as much light as you can afford, obviously trails are unlit and strewn with rocks, branches, and holes.


If you ride at night in a variety of lighting conditions getting a light that falls in the middle of the extremes described above is the best bet. Since I fall into the later of the categories I will focus on mid-range lights that will suit a variety of conditions. The price range for lights ranges from double digits all the way to $950. My budget cuts off at about $150 so that's where I've concentrated this overview.
   
Cygolite Expilion 350-Lumen USB Rechargeable Headlight

Cygolite Expillion 350 - an all in one light offering 7 light modes, Run time - 2  hrs. @ 350 lumens. USB or AC rechargeable. Handle bar mount only.
List price $109.95   http://www.cygolite.com/products/index.html
Cygolite offers other Expillion lights ranging from 400 to 170 lumens.

Cygolite Expillion 350 75' beam test from mtbr's 2012 light shoot out




Gemini Titan - 900 lumens, 4 light modes, light and battery pack mount on the helmet or handle bars. Run time - 4 hours on high. 
List price $99.99  http://gemini-lights.com/products/titan



SUPER DRIVE

Lezyne Super Drive - 450 lumen, All in one light. 4 light modes.
Run times - 1.5 hrs @ 450 lumens, 2 hrs @ 300 lumens, 4 hrs @ 150 lumens and 5 hrs on flash mode. Handle bar mount only. USB rechargeable.
List Price $110  http://www.lezyne.com/led-lights#panel-1
Lezyne also makes 2 other models at 300 and 150 lumens.


 Lezyne Super Drive 75' light test from mtbr's 2012 light shoot out  


Lezyne Super Drive beam test from bike radar.com



Magicshine MJ-816 - 1400 lumens, Handle bar mount with O ring, separate battery pack and switch. Run times on highest setting vary between 2-3 hrs.
List Price $120 
One note about this light, the battery pack was recently recalled by GeoMan


Magicshine MJ-816 front light
Magicshine MJ-816 beam test from bike radar.com












Niterider MiNewt 600 Cordless - 600 lumens, Run times - 1.5 hrs @ 600 lumens, 3 hrs @ 400 lumens, 4.5 hrs @ 275 lumens. 
5.5 hour USB rechargeable. Handle bar and helmet mounts. 
http://www.niterider.com/rechargeable-new/minewt-600-cordless-new/
List Price $150


Niterider MiNewt 600 Cordless 75' beam test from mtbr 2012 light shoot out


Niterider MiNewt 600 Cordless beam test from bike radar.com


Niterider  MiNewt 600 Cordless 100' trail beam test from mtbr

Serfas True 500 - All in one design, Run time 1.75 hrs @ 500 lumens, USB or AC rechargeable, Handle bar and helmet mounts.
List Price $150   http://www.serfas.com/product_details.asp?ID=899 
Serfas also offers the True light series in 250 and 150 lumens




Serfas TSL 500 75' beam test from mtbr 2012 light shoot out


Serfas TSL 500, 100' trail beam test from mtbr 


Some of the information I've included in this overview was obtained from the following links which you may also find helpful.
http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-lights-186

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Online or Bricks and Mortar?

I recently read a blog post by Jan Heine the editor of Bicycle Quarterly, about the disappearance of Independent bookstores due in large part to Amazon.com. He noted that an internet query for bicycle components may also lead to Amazon.com. This got me thinking about my own experiences shopping online and at local stores. 




I am a big user of the internet, I like the convenience of looking up just about anything online and sometimes the savings that can be found when shopping online. I'm certainly not rich and must live within my means so saving money is an important factor when deciding where and what I buy. On the other hand there are some shopped for items that have to be looked at, touched and tried in the 3 dimensional world. 

When it comes to buying bicycle components and gear I try to use my local bike shop. I know they work hard in a business they love, but they're not getting rich while doing it. Sometimes they have what I want in stock, other times they have to order it. I work for a small business so I completely understand that you can't carry everything, and if your business is somewhat seasonal you have to keep an even closer eye on your overhead and cash flow. 


Some might use a local shop to try an item then go home and see where they can buy it the cheapest. Others just use the internet for the convenience of not having to physically make a trip to the store. Both methods put the individual shopper before their community. If we don't patronize local businesses, particularly independent ones they won't survive and the jobs and tax dollars that they provide will be gone.


For every $100 spent in a local independent brick and mortar business at least $68 goes back into the local economy. Spend $100 at a big box or chain store and only $43 returns to the local economy. Spend $100 online and the local community sees none of it unless they are located in your area.[1]

If I was wealthy I would just shop at my favorite independent stores without price shopping. I would consider it my civic duty to perhaps pay a little more knowing the benefits to the local economy as well as the individual business.

Here's how I manage my budget restraints and try to support my local independent businesses; I get an idea of how much an item costs via the internet then I go to the shop and see if they have the item in stock at a similar price. If the shops price is the same or just a few dollars more I happily buy it there. I weigh in the shipping cost and the instant gratification of having the item in my hands right then and there. Sometimes they don't have what I am looking for, but they are always willing to order it. In which case I use the same criteria to make my decision. Of course small items that are not that expensive I just purchase locally and when it comes to cycling specific clothing I always shop local because I need to check the fit. You don't save any money if you have to pay for return shipping. 


I hope this gives everyone some food for thought and perhaps the next time you need to shop for a bicycle related item or something else you will consider your local independent business. Without them our main streets will become homogenized with one chain store or franchise after another.






1. Civic Economics 2008 study, Chicago IL

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Bike Show at The Dudley Flea Market

Give Thanks for Bikes Show
Sunday November 20th
7AM until its over
Large indoor bike show with all kinds of bikes and parts
 Free Admission
$25 for display space
At the Dudley Flea Market
10 West Main St, Dudley, Massachusetts 

For more info call 800-336-2453
For Directions Click here